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#1
Hardware Discussion / Re: LTO battery ... how did th...
Last post by admin - October 11, 2026, 05:50:47 AMThe LTO camping battery has been fine. I just used it about a month ago. I've never tried starting a car with it, though.
I only had it direct-connected to the car during initial testing. Since then I've been using a Meanwell 50a power supply to charge it from the grid, and a Kisae 50a DC/DC charger to charge the battery when off the grid. I'm sure a battery like that would start a car. The Yinlong cells are heavy duty. My main concern is whether the alternator would handle the stress without overheating.
Assuming that the alternator can handle it, I would think it would be alright as long as the voltage is at around 15.5v or lower. I ran into balance issues charging at a higher voltage than that. Most alternators run at 15v or lower. Charging at 14.5v is ok, and at that voltage, you don't really leave that much capacity on the table. As an added bonus, the lower voltage stresses the battery cells less.
About a year ago I added a cheap Renogy battery monitor (the kind that comes with a 500a shunt). That's about the only meaningful change that I've made. If I was building it from scratch today, I'd consider using a JKBMS rather than a simple cell balancer. I don't think JKBMS had anything suitable for this application back in 2019. I won't upgrade now because then I'd have to worry about cooling the BMS...something that wasn't a consideration when I picked the layout/case that I'm using.
I only had it direct-connected to the car during initial testing. Since then I've been using a Meanwell 50a power supply to charge it from the grid, and a Kisae 50a DC/DC charger to charge the battery when off the grid. I'm sure a battery like that would start a car. The Yinlong cells are heavy duty. My main concern is whether the alternator would handle the stress without overheating.
Assuming that the alternator can handle it, I would think it would be alright as long as the voltage is at around 15.5v or lower. I ran into balance issues charging at a higher voltage than that. Most alternators run at 15v or lower. Charging at 14.5v is ok, and at that voltage, you don't really leave that much capacity on the table. As an added bonus, the lower voltage stresses the battery cells less.
About a year ago I added a cheap Renogy battery monitor (the kind that comes with a 500a shunt). That's about the only meaningful change that I've made. If I was building it from scratch today, I'd consider using a JKBMS rather than a simple cell balancer. I don't think JKBMS had anything suitable for this application back in 2019. I won't upgrade now because then I'd have to worry about cooling the BMS...something that wasn't a consideration when I picked the layout/case that I'm using.
#2
Hardware Discussion / LTO battery ... how did that g...
Last post by Alan McReynolds - October 09, 2026, 06:58:47 PMI'm thinking of building up a similar battery. In my case, for cold weather starting.
Curious about your long term results. It seems like you used a direct connection to an alternator. I'm curious how that went.
Curious about your long term results. It seems like you used a direct connection to an alternator. I'm curious how that went.
#3
OBD-II Discussion / Re: Opel KW82 protocol and KW2...
Last post by Gerhard - September 07, 2017, 09:01:51 AMHi Steve,
We have information and knowledge on both protocols. ;-)
See you soon,
Gerhard
We have information and knowledge on both protocols. ;-)
See you soon,
Gerhard
#4
Hardware Discussion / Re: Dos driver for Audigy 1
Last post by Lucas - June 01, 2014, 10:00:26 AMThere is an Audigy 2 driver inside too..
#5
OBD-II Discussion / Re: what to do if it says no j...
Last post by admin - February 06, 2012, 11:09:55 PMIf you use the /gpp command switch, the program will run a hardware detection routine to see if a Gravis Gamepad Pro joystick is connected. If it doesn't find one, then it'll complain that there's no joystick. That's the only time that message is supposed to be displayed.
Are you using any command switches?
Are you using any command switches?
#6
OBD-II Discussion / what to do if it says no joyst...
Last post by jerry - February 05, 2012, 04:51:56 PMgot a little 486 laptop with w95 on it, running your software in a dosbox, elm323 with homebrew interface. any ideas?
thanks
thanks
#7
Hardware Discussion / Have you considered..
Last post by admin - March 04, 2009, 07:18:03 PMMorely,
The thin client looks kind of neat, but I don't think I'll be using one in the car-computer project. I'm going to need at least 2 serial ports, and I doubt the thin clients are going to support > 133gb hard drives.
I might get one anyway, though. I can think of at least one other project where one of these would come in handy.
As for the controller, I know many like using numeric keypads, but I'd be swearing at mine. Besides, I have no good place to mount one. Playstation-wanna-be 10-button gamepads don't look very cool, but I find them really easy to operate.
The thin client looks kind of neat, but I don't think I'll be using one in the car-computer project. I'm going to need at least 2 serial ports, and I doubt the thin clients are going to support > 133gb hard drives.
I might get one anyway, though. I can think of at least one other project where one of these would come in handy.
As for the controller, I know many like using numeric keypads, but I'd be swearing at mine. Besides, I have no good place to mount one. Playstation-wanna-be 10-button gamepads don't look very cool, but I find them really easy to operate.
#8
Hardware Discussion / Have you considered..
Last post by Morely Dotes - March 03, 2009, 04:35:16 PMFor the main system, take a look at the Maxterm Maxspeed thin clients; you can pick one up on eBay for less than $50 including shipping; model 8300B is a good choice. You can either replace the existing CF card with a larger one (16 gigs for about $35 last time I bought one), or mount a laptop drive on the inside of the lid (which I also did). The thing is already using an external AC-to-12VDC power brick, so you can just wire it to your car's power system.
For the controller, consider a numeric keypad. IT can easily mount on the center console or dashboard, looks elegant (compared to a gamepad, anyway), and can be operated without looking once you get used to the layout.
For the controller, consider a numeric keypad. IT can easily mount on the center console or dashboard, looks elegant (compared to a gamepad, anyway), and can be operated without looking once you get used to the layout.
#9
Hardware Discussion / Have you considered..
Last post by Anonymous - November 15, 2008, 10:03:12 AMbelkin's nostromo 52 speedpad? http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=164714" target="_blank">http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=164714
to control? another idea would be ebay hp's laptop remote control and use a media center ir receiver.
to control? another idea would be ebay hp's laptop remote control and use a media center ir receiver.
#10
General Discussion / Hi
Last post by admin - October 02, 2008, 10:31:50 PMWow, I didn't know anyone was still using that. Good to hear that it's still working.
Lately, I've been working on the software that I plan to use in my next car computer. It'll be version 3 of my VCC program. The configuration program and the VDIP support have been written. The TSR still needs some more work, though. Mainly it's a matter of fixing bugs. I might add Car2PC support too. Still debating that one.
I'm definitely going to keep using DOS and MPXPlay. They work so well, I have no reason to switch to anything else.
Lately, I've been working on the software that I plan to use in my next car computer. It'll be version 3 of my VCC program. The configuration program and the VDIP support have been written. The TSR still needs some more work, though. Mainly it's a matter of fixing bugs. I might add Car2PC support too. Still debating that one.
I'm definitely going to keep using DOS and MPXPlay. They work so well, I have no reason to switch to anything else.