Up Squared V2 Edge:

When I ordered the PC, I also purchased the optional USB 2.0 header. Then after receiving the PC, I cut a hole for the header and attached it with screws. While I also added a jack for the power switch, I'm probably never going to need it. Then before I put it back together, I installed the NVMe drive.

[Up Squared V2 Edge with optional USB 2.0 header added]

Mounting / Wiring:

Prior to wiring, I needed to mount everything in order to be sure that the wires were of adequate length. For this project, I'm mounting everything to my drink holder. The PC has two mounting holes on the bottom, and is held down with M4 threaded screws.

[Mounting the PC]

Before wiring the relay, I needed to figure out which pins on the serial port to use. Here, I took a right-angle serial cable and cut off one of the ends then used a multimeter to determine which wires correspond to the pins that I planned to use. My original plan was to use the DTR (1) and CD (4) pins as described here.

[Serial port pins] [Serial port pins]

During later testing, I found that I wasn't receiving any input. After further investigation, I found pins 1 and 4 weren't even available. It turns out that the Up Squared V2's serial port only includes 5 out of the 9 pins. Fortunately, I did find two pins that I could use: RTS and CTS. RTS supplies the voltage to the relay contacts and CTS receives the voltage. These are on pins 7 and 8. On the serial cable, above, they correspond to the blue and purple wires.

[Up Squared V2 serial connector]

I mounted the power supply, and the relay to the bottom of the drink holder using #6 screws. On the bottom right there's an Anderson Powerpole connector. The red connector goes to a source of always-on power. The blue connector goes to a source of switched power. The black connector goes to ground. I used this same type of power connector in version 2 of this project and it worked really well.

The black ground wire is hooked to the V- input on the power supply, the black wire on the timer, and the green wire on the relay. The blue wire goes to the blue wire on the timer, and the blue wire on the relay. This signals the timer and the relay to turn on and off. The red wire is connects to the red power input of the timer. Then the timer's yellow power output wire connects to the V+ input on the power supply. The "SW1" relay contacts are connected to the RTS and CTS pins (7 and 8) on the serial port. Finally the power supply output is connected to the PC using a 2.1mm ID / 5.5mm OD cable assembly.

[Layout and power wiring]

Timer Configuration:

The timer requires programming before it can function. Since the programmer supplies the firmware, it's best to update the programmer first.


The PC connects to the programmer over wifi. After connecting to wifi and visiting in a web browser, it' a matter of clicking "Update UI", selecting the firmware.bin file, then selecting the filesystem.bin file.

[Timer config wifi] [Timer programmer firmware]

Next comes the task of programming the timer. The red and black wires, from the programmer, supply power the timer. The white wire is used for communication between between the two. With only three wires to hook up, the main concern is making sure that the wires don't touch each other and short out.

[Timer configuration]

The timer has a variety of different things that it can do. "Off Delay" (function 12) does what I need for this project.

[Timer function] [Select function]

Next, it's a matter of selecting function number 12, then clicking the "Select" button. After the function was programmed, I went into the timer configuration to select the number of seconds. I started off with a delay of 10 seconds. Later, after observing that Windows was only taking about 4 seconds to shut down, I set the shutdown delay to 6 seconds.

[Timer config wifi] [Timer programmer firmware] [Timer config wifi]


Since everything was attached to the drink holder, installation was literally a matter of plugging in the power and audio cables. Below is a picture of what it looked like after loading the software and addressing first problem mentioned on the "Modifications" page.

[The PC after installation]


UP Squared V2 Edge, Windows 10 IOT Enterprise 2021, Celeron N6210, 2GB RAM, 32GB EMMC UP Shop $191.99
USB 2.0 pin header cable (EP-CBUSB10PFL01) UP Shop $5.99
PNY Pro Elite V2 512GB USB 3.2 Gen 2 Flash Drive Best Buy $99.99
Mean Well RSD-30G-12 12V 2.5A 30W DC/DC Power Supply Mouser $36.34 Multi-Functional 3V-18V Time Delay Relay Timer V8, 5 amp + Programmer Amazon $35.00
OONO DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC/DC 12V Control Voltage Amazon $15.00
Cable Assembly, 5.5 x2.1x12 mm, 90 degree DC plug to stripped tinned, 24 AWG Digikey $2.60
1 x USB/Serial Converter (FT232RL) Adafruit $17.50
PNGKNYOCN 30 cm Straight Through DB9 RS232 Serial Cable. 90 Degree Left to Right Angled Amazon $8.99
340PCS Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts Assortment Kit, M4 Phillips Pan Head Machine Screws with Case Amazon $6.97
URWOOW 2 Pack SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Extension Cable Cord Left and Right Angle - 6 inch Amazon $6.80
2x CY USB 2.0 A Type Male Right Angled to USB 2.0 Female Extension Cable 90 Degree Connector 20cm Amazon $7.99 each
Poyiccot HDMI Extension Cable, Degree Left Angle, 0.5feet Amazon $12.87
Woieyeks HDMI DDC EDID Dummy Plug 2-Pack Amazon $4.99

Last Update: 5-29-2024